Now, before we get started, make sure you have all the necessary tools on hand:

• Emulsion (If freshly mixed let it settle down, to get the air bubbles out)
• A scoop coater (The most suitable are those that have a sharp and a round end.)
• A frame with a mesh (aim for a minimum of 20 newtons)

And don’t forget, your mesh should be spotless – no dust, no fingerprints, nada. It’s like preparing a clean canvas for your masterpiece.

The Basic Coating

Step 1: Apply Emulsion to the Print Side

Grab your trusty scoop coater (preferred with a round edge) and fill it with a generous amount of photo emulsion. Position it at the bottom of your screen’s print side, tilting it at a 45-degree angle until the emulsion meets the mesh. Don’t worry if it doesn’t seep through – the emulsion is thick, so it’ll stay put.

Now, here’s the important part: slowly and steadily move the scoop coater upwards, maintaining a consistent pressure against the mesh. Take your time and keep that pressure even from bottom to top. (Peep the image for reference!)

Step 2: Apply Emulsion to the Squeegee Side

Flip your screen over and repeat the process on the squeegee side. Yep, you’ll be coating right over the wet emulsion you just applied. It might feel a bit counterintuitive, but trust the process!

Step 3: Dry the Screen

You’re almost there! Place your freshly coated screen in a print-side-down position to dry. (Again, scope out the image to see how it’s done.) Remember, the Screen dries in a flat position.

And just like that, you’ve nailed your first coat of emulsion. Give yourself a pat on the back – you’re well on your way to screen printing success!

But wait, there’s more! To really level up your emulsion game, keep these tips in mind:

• Consistency is key. Develop a steady coating technique for each mesh type to achieve that perfect EOM (emulsion over mesh).
• Drying conditions matter. Aim for a dark, dust-free space with warm air circulation. But steer clear of direct heat or strong airflow, which can attract dust to your freshly coated screen.
• Practice makes perfect. The more you coat, the more you’ll get a feel for the process. Don’t get discouraged if your first few attempts aren’t flawless – every screen is a learning opportunity.

Why Do the Surface Coat?

The surface coat (steps 4 and 5) is a crucial part of this coating method. Here’s why it’s so important:

• It builds up the emulsion thickness on the print side of the screen. A thicker stencil is more durable and resistant to breakdown during the printing process.
• It improves the EOM (Emulsion Over Mesh), which is essential for creating a high-quality stencil.
• The extra coat fills in any pinholes or thin spots left after the initial coats. This ensures your stencil has a solid, continuous layer of emulsion.
• Drying with the print side up allows the emulsion to level out smoothly. This provides an even surface for your artwork to be burned into the stencil.
• The double coating technique (print side, squeegee side, print side again) ensures full coverage. No areas are missed or under-coated.

So in essence, the surface coat strengthens your stencil, fills imperfections, and prepares a smooth, consistent layer of emulsion to achieve crisp, long-lasting prints. It’s that vital final step that takes your screen from good to great!

A Video on How to coat a Mesh

Here is a short video from my Video Section.

Questions & Answers

What happens if I put too much emulsion on the screen?

 If you apply too much emulsion, you can always remove the excess. Simply use the sharp edge of your scoop coater to scrape off the emulsion from both sides of the screen, and start the coating process again.

After drying, I see fisheyes or craters in the emulsion coating. Why does this happen?

Fisheyes or crater-like defects in the dried emulsion coating are usually caused by contamination. This happens when you don’t degrease the mesh properly or fail to store it in a dust-free environment before coating.

After inspecting the dried coated screen, I see pinholes and/or bubbles in the emulsion.

Pinholes and bubbles in the emulsion are often the result of coating too quickly. It’s important to coat slowly, as the mesh needs to be filled well with emulsion. Coating too fast can create bubbles in the emulsion layer.

Why does the emulsion drip down the screen while drying?

Emulsion drips during the drying process are typically caused by applying too much emulsion to the screen.